Lokrum sits 600 metres off the Dubrovnik coast — close enough that on a still morning you can hear the bells of the Old Town across the water. The whole island, 72 hectares of it, has been a Special Reserve of Forest Vegetation since 1948 — the third oldest protected nature area in Croatia and part of Dubrovnik's UNESCO World Heritage site. Roughly nine-tenths of Lokrum is dense Mediterranean forest; the rest is paths, ruins, gardens and a single salt-water lake called Mrtvo More.
Benedictine monks settled here around 915 AD and built a monastery first mentioned in writing in 1023 — the very first Benedictine house of the Dubrovnik Republic, and for centuries the spiritual and economic engine of the whole island. The Roman Curia granted the abbots the mitre in 1149, placing them just behind the archbishop of Dubrovnik. The three-nave Romanesque-Gothic basilica still stands, as does the cloister with its Latin inscription 'CONCORDIA RES PARVAE CRESCUNT' — harmony makes small things grow.
Local lore says that when the monks were finally forced off the island in 1808 they walked the cloister at night with inverted candles, cursing every future owner of Lokrum. The list of subsequent tragedies is hard to ignore: Archduke Maximilian of Habsburg, who bought the island in 1858 and built a neo-Renaissance summer villa and botanical garden, was executed in Mexico nine years later; the same Habsburg generation lost Empress Sisi to assassination and Crown Prince Rudolf to suicide. Fort Royal, the French Napoleonic castle on the island's 96-metre summit, watches over all of it.
More recently, Lokrum found a second life on screen. The Game of Thrones production used it for the city of Qarth — Daenerys's garden party at the home of Xaro Xhoan Daxos was filmed in Maximilian's botanical garden in season two, and the island's peacocks supposedly inspired the golden Qarth ornaments. A replica of the Iron Throne, donated to Croatia by HBO after the series wrapped, now sits in a small visitor centre inside the old monastery — free to sit on and free to photograph.