Korčula sits in the central Adriatic, on a small wooded peninsula on the north-east coast of the island that shares its name. From the sea it appears almost as a single architectural object — a tight cluster of stone houses, towers and a single bell tower rising directly from the water, all of it enclosed by Venetian walls. The town was first mentioned in the 10th century by the Byzantine emperor Constantine Porphyrogennetos, but its golden age came under four centuries of Venetian rule, which left the place looking almost exactly as a wealthy Renaissance trading port should.
The first thing you notice walking in is the street layout. Korčula's narrow alleys radiate from a central spine like the bones of a fish — the so-called herringbone pattern — designed to let cool sea breezes through the town while breaking the force of the maestral wind in summer and the bura in winter. With one exception, every street inside the walls is stepped; only the 'Street of Thoughts' along the south-eastern wall is level. Building outside the walls was forbidden until the 18th century, and the wooden drawbridge into town wasn't replaced until 1863.
At the centre of it all stands the Cathedral of St. Mark, built between 1301 and 1806 in a slow blend of Romanesque and Gothic with a fantastical carved façade. Inside are a marble altar attributed to Jacopo Tintoretto and a bell tower with one of the widest views of the southern Dalmatian islands. Around it lie a 15th-century Franciscan monastery with a Venetian Gothic cloister, the palaces of merchant noble families from the 1400s and 1500s, the old Venetian governor's residence — and, on a corner of the main square, the modest stone tower that local tradition identifies as the family home of Marco Polo, the 13th-century explorer who connected Europe to the Far East.
Korčula is also one of Croatia's most surprising wine destinations. The island's centre is the cradle of Pošip, a fragrant golden-white wine first cultivated near the villages of Čara and Smokvica. South of town, in the sandy vineyards of Lumbarda, grows Grk — a rare salt-touched white that is produced commercially nowhere else in the world. Add the centuries-old Moreška sword dance, first recorded here in 1666 and still performed in full costume through the summer months, and Korčula becomes a town you can spend a full day in without seeing it all.